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Day dresses were pleated and seamed in an exacting arithmetic to ensure they fell just so on the body. Grecian goddess dresses featured interlocking sections made from yards of silk plissé (if there is a trend in couture, it’s plissé), and ornate lace gowns were hand-pieced on tulle. One strapless tapestry number had been woven to order, then the monkeys and flowers brushed by hand to render them three-dimensional. Primarily in shades of nude and navy, and the nipped-waist, narrow-shouldered, full-skirted 1940s and ’50s silhouettes Ms. Chiuri favors for Dior, the collection was inspired, the designer said, by a book called “Atelier” by Elisabetta Orsini. It made her think about Virginia Woolf’s “A Room of One’s Own,” and the fact that the atelier was, for a designer, the equivalent (“a place you can reflect, a place you can take care of your self”) with the petites mains — the human element — as the heroes. The show room was lined with dressmakers’ busts displaying the white toiles that were the base of the collection, and on each seat was a booklet created by the house with meditations on the production of couture (also its meaning, in an unnecessarily pretentious Lacan/Duchamp-quoting way). Giambattista Valli haute couture, fall 2018.CreditValerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times Giambattista Valli haute couture, fall 2018.CreditValerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times It’s a risky thing to deliberately fly in the face of digital culture and insist on the value of manual artistry and that which cannot be shared or liked en masse, especially at a time when fashion seems to measure its worth by numbers of followers. There’s no question the result was less photographically gripping than, say, Giambattista Valli’s maximalist couture youthquake of bustiers-with-trains over high-waisted full trousers; his high/low frothing baby dolls of tulle and Chantilly lace, and neon pink entrance-makers, which are like candy for the selfie set. (Many of whom, such as Derek Blasberg, newly installed at YouTube as a connector between the tech giant and the fashion world, were sitting front row and amusing themselves preshow by taking — you guessed it — selfies.) By contrast, the Dior clothes came dangerously close to boring.

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